Furnace Repair in Wayne, NJ

Gas furnace and oil furnace repair across Wayne and the towns around it.

Gas and Oil Furnace Repair in Wayne

A forced-air furnace in Wayne is usually a gas furnace in the basement, garage or a utility closet, with central air sharing the same ducts. A smaller number still burn oil: about 2 percent of Wayne homes heat with fuel oil, against about 87 percent with gas (Wayne home heating fuel). We repair standard efficiency furnaces vented into a chimney or metal flue, condensing furnaces vented through PVC pipe, and oil furnaces with a burner on the front.

Furnace repair covers these parts:

  • Hot surface igniters and spark igniters
  • Flame sensors, so burners stop lighting and shutting off seconds later
  • Inducer motors, pressure switches and their hoses
  • Gas valves and burner assemblies
  • Blower motors, run capacitors, variable speed modules and dirty blower wheels
  • High limit and rollout switches, door switches and fuses
  • Control boards, transformers and thermostat wiring
  • Condensate traps, drain lines and condensate pumps on high efficiency furnaces
  • Oil burner nozzles, filters, pumps, electrodes and cad cells

Furnace Heating Repair Through a Wayne Winter

Blue gas burner flames inside a furnace

NOAA's normals for the Little Falls station, just south of Wayne, show about 5,286 heating degree days a year against about 975 cooling degree days, and a January average low near 22 degrees (NOAA 1991 to 2020 normals). The heating load here is about five times the cooling load, so a Wayne furnace runs from October into April. Igniters crack after thousands of starts, flame sensors coat over, inducer and blower motor bearings wear and filters load up through the winter. A clogged filter starves the furnace of air, the heat exchanger overheats and the limit switch shuts the burners off, which looks like a furnace that runs for a few minutes and quits.

Furnace Repair for Wayne Split-Levels, Ranches and Colonials

Two thirds of Wayne homes were built before 1980, and about 68 percent are single-family detached houses. Furnaces in those houses often feed ducts that were first sized for heat only, before central air was added, and returns that are too small for the blower. Split-levels and colonials commonly have upstairs rooms that run cold in winter and hot in summer. Those are duct and airflow problems as much as furnace problems: a blower on the wrong speed, a closed damper, a crushed flex duct or a single return in the hallway.

Basement furnaces near the river also take flood damage. A furnace that sat in water needs its burners, gas valve, blower motor and control board replaced or tested before it runs.

Oil Furnace Repair in Wayne

Oil furnaces and oil burners fail at the fuel end more than anywhere else. A clogged nozzle or filter, a fuel pump that lost its prime, sludge drawn up from the bottom of an old tank and a dirty cad cell that cannot see the flame all cause a burner that starts, runs a few seconds and locks out. Electrodes and ignition transformers wear out as well. Yearly cleaning keeps an oil burner lighting cleanly and keeps soot off the heat exchanger.

Homes with a boiler instead of a furnace are covered under boiler repair in Wayne. For the cooling side of a forced-air system, see AC repair in Wayne. We repair furnaces in Pompton Plains, North Haledon, Totowa and across the Wayne service area.

Furnace Repair Questions

What is the most common part to fail on a furnace?

On gas furnaces the igniter and flame sensor fail most. After those come pressure switches, the draft inducer, the blower motor and its capacitor, and the circuit board. On oil furnaces it is the nozzle, filter, pump, ignition transformer and the cad cell that sees the flame.

How do I know when my furnace needs replacing?

A cracked heat exchanger, rust through the cabinet or burner area, the same major part failing again and again, or parts that are no longer made for the model. Rooms that never heat evenly can be a duct or sizing problem rather than a furnace problem.

What is the typical lifespan of a furnace?

It depends on how it was installed and kept up more than on the brand. Furnaces sized right, with clean filters and yearly service, last much longer than ones that short cycle or run starved for air. A furnace in a basement that has flooded tends to have a shorter life because water damages the burners and controls.

How do you tell if your furnace died?

Nothing happens when the thermostat calls for heat: no inducer, no click, no blower. Before deciding it is dead, check the breaker, the service switch near the furnace, the thermostat batteries and the furnace door, which has a safety switch. If those are fine, a blown fuse, a failed transformer or a control board is likely, and those are repairable.

Why is my heater running but I'm not getting any heat?

Cool air from the vents while the blower runs means the burners never lit or shut down early: an igniter, flame sensor, gas valve or limit switch. If warm air comes out but rooms stay cold, look at a clogged filter, closed dampers, disconnected ducts in an attic or crawl space, or a blower running too slowly.

How efficient is a 20 year old furnace?

That depends on what was installed. An older standard efficiency furnace with a metal flue wastes much more of its gas up the chimney than a condensing furnace with PVC vent pipe. A worn blower, a dirty burner and a clogged filter all lower efficiency further, and those are things a tune-up can correct.

What would cause an oil furnace not to kick on?

An empty or nearly empty tank, a clogged oil filter or nozzle, a failed fuel pump, a bad ignition transformer or electrodes, or a dirty cad cell that cannot see the flame and shuts the burner down. Water or sludge from the bottom of an older tank is a common cause after a fuel delivery.
Furnace Not Heating?

Boiler, furnace, heat pump and AC repair in Wayne and nearby towns. Call (973) 709-5323.

Call (973) 709-5323